The Season's Ripe for Hiking!

In the past few weeks, the weather in Pohang (on many days) has significantly improved, making me feel like I want to be outside all the time! Of course, I have things to do that keep me from fulfilling this wish, but every time I step outside, I am excited and hopeful for spring. It's a little bizarre from time to time, however, as after 3 days of temperatures in the low 50s, we'll have a day where it's 24 degrees, and they're predicting snow. I've heard the weather at home is somewhat crazy as well. I'm sure we have global warming and climate change to thank.

This past weekend, I went with Hoopie for a nice day hike in Gyeongju. Gyeongju is the cultural capital of Korea, and is only 30 minutes by car from Pohang. I haven't spent a lot of time there except to keep medical appointments, so this was really the first time I got to see it. It is beautiful. Even before the hike, riding the bus through the town to get to the temple, I was overwhelmed with how traditional the city looks. It's completely different from everywhere else I've been in korea. Most cities here are spattered with high-rises and industry, and the only traditional buildings you see are temples, usually on the outskirts. Gyeongju, however, is quite different. The buildings are low, with pagoda rooftops and traditional facades. There are mazes of side streets running through the little houses, and hardly any chain stores or large marts. There is a river that cuts in and out of the city, reflecting the sun and making everything green and blue. It's beautiful. It made me feel more like I was in Asia than anywhere I've yet been in korea.

The hike was delightful. The weather was warm, but cool and breezy enough that we didn't overheat as we climbed the steeper parts of the trail. We began at the Bulguksa Temple, one of the most famous temples in South Korea, because it represents the height of Shilla architecture. I never tire of the brilliant colors on the eves of the temples, the spacious interiors of the courtyards, and the easy peaceful feeling present inside their walls. After looking around, we found the trail to Seokguram, another temple just a few short kilometers up the mountain. We took our time and played trail games, occasionally stopping to snap photos of the magnificent views, or just take a wheeze break. (In the midst of this, I realized I'm pretty out of shape!) Seokguram is incredible to see, as it's nestled into the mountain amid rocks and steep inclines--it really is an engineering feat. I want to return there at night to see how it looks when the lanterns are lit, and the view of the countryside below is dotted with lights of scattered cities.
Hoopie and I continued up the trail at my request--though we were getting hungry for lunch, I wanted to see the peak, and it was only another 1.3 kilometers, though quite steep. We munched some trail snacks, sipped our water, and continued on. We breathed heavily on the climb and carefully navigated around wide patches of mud, as well as left-over ice from the last snow. When we reached the top, the payoff was incredible. The trail opened up and we could see for miles. Vast ridges of mountains in all directions, rivers cutting through the valleys, and the ocean in the distance. What a beautiful country this is, I thought.

As the weather is easing into spring, I'm making a personal resolution to get onto the trails as often as possible. There is so much natural beauty here, though this country is so industrialized and western. Korean people really value their mountains, their hiking, and the peace of nature. As a northwesterner, I feel a certain affinity for them through this shared piece of culture.

Where to next?

Cold Snow, Warm Heart

Yesterday morning, I woke to find pohang had been hit with it's second snow storm of the year, rendering the city, once again, immobile. I was ok with it, despite the implication that a cancelled school day means a working Saturday make up class (for Moon Kkang, anyway). It gave me a chance to hole up inside my cozy apartment, wash my dishes, grade my school books, catch up on some emails, and read. You see, I've been in a whirlwind the last few weeks, largely due to this new development: Allow me to back track. So I had a party at the end of January, and it rocked. It was the first I've had since I came here, and it really was a long time coming--I was craving it, like mad. I just can't get enough of people as a rule, and large gatherings of everyone I've ever known are kind of a habit I inherited from my family. When your parents have extended families of more than 30 people each, and you grew up with your youth minister mom throwing blow out (wholesome) teenager parties and retreats, it just gets into your blood, I guess.

You know that feeling a good gathering of people can bring? The feeling where everyone is getting pleasantly buzzed (I don't mean only on alcohol), and new friendships are forming, and the lights are soft and warm, and the music is good, but the conversation is steady and humming enough that you can barely hear the music? It was that kind of good. People started showing up at 7, and then continued in a steady stream until my little apartment was just perfectly bulging with people, but not overflowing. Everyone brought food and drinks to share, and I made my family's potato cheddar dill soup--a tripple batch--and by the end of the night, it was gone! We ate, we drank, we chatted. Some people who came really surprised me by showing up at all, but everyone who made it was awesome.

Around 11pm or so was probably when the number of guest was at its peak, and I believe it was at that point that one Korean friend (Solomon) showed up with another friend in tow. He introduced me to Hoopie (korean name gun-hoo); a bespectacled, fit, handsome 28-year-old in skinny jeans, a hoodie, and a commie hat. When I first met him, I thought he was a foreigner though he looked korean, because he spoke with British English that was fairly polished--articles intact and all. His smile was shy but warm, his eyes were genuine, and our conversation was easy. I remember thinking how kind he was, and how cute he was, and I remember looking forward to further chats through the evening as I stepped away to greet more entering guests. I remember he said to me "you're like a doctor giving out medicine--I feel comfortable and easy when I'm talking to you." I thought he was just being cute (and a little cheesy) because we had been talking about my psych degree, but he wasn't. He was sincere.

The party progressed in a delightful fashion, with a good balance of varied characters coming and going. It was great to see friends mixing in the way I love, and through the evening, I began to feel validated in some of the friendships that previously had only been casual aquaintances. Later, Hoopie and I chatted again in my (opened) bedroom, a few other people wandering in and out, and we swapped a little music on my guitar. He's incredible, but it's long since the time when I would so easily swoon over a decent musician. What struck me was his humility and openess. He wasn't playing for show. He was playing (and asked me to play) to share something with me. I was warmed doing just that with an opened human being. It felt really nice.

Around 4 or 5 am, most of my guests departed, save Hoopie, his friend Solomon, and my other awesome/newish friend, Grant. This part of the evening (or morning) was probably the most memorable. We four stood on my porch drinking wine, as they smoked their cigarettes, and we later came inside and played a few rounds of cards which were more a backdrop to our conversation and easy manner than anything else. We went back on the porch for another round of their smokes after an hour or so, and I was really aware in my heart of the genuinely awesome time we were all having together. As time slipped by unnoticed, it felt real, natural, easy. It felt pretty rare. We laughed as we talked about all kinds of things.

Around 6am, Grant said he needed to go, and Solomon had promised him a ride home, and so they left, with Solomon to return shortly. I remember feeling good about the prospect of getting Hoopie alone, but I don't really know what I was hoping for. I remember I was really curious about him. I really wanted to know what he was about, and I wanted to see how we would do without the distraction of other people around.

As it had been with him all night, our conversation was easy, comfortable, and genuine. I really don't remember what we talked about--neither does he. We were seated on my couch, and I remember a subtle undercurrent of electricity stemming from where my folded knee was touching his thigh. I remember feeling calm. I remember feeling just... good. I remember wanting him to kiss me. But not wanting him to kiss me. I remember a pause in conversation that was not uncomfortable but somewhat pregnant. And just as I was eager to get more of him, Solomon returned. They left together after a few more minutes, and I was happy to have made a new connection. It was now close to 7am, and I promptly went to bed, planning to deal with dishes and cleanup in the morning.

Time is marching on, and as my late grandmother used to say, "it never slows down!" It seems that with each incredible thing that reveals itself in life, I am made aware that my own experience is only scratching the surface of the infinite possiblitiy of the universe. That sounds abstract and somewhat crazy even, but I mean it. There is so much life to be lived, so many things to feel, so much to make you burst at your seams and wonder out loud, "What the hell is happening?!" Nothing really incredible is ever expected, either. You can attempt to plan "mountaintop" experiences, and maybe even come pretty close to them by trying... but I think the most awe-inspiring ones come out of nowhere, often when you aren't ready for them, and land right in your lap. I only hope that my heart and mind and eyes are always opened enough to see them.

Santa Claus is Coming?

It's interesting how we measure the year in seasons, marking the time with the changes in weather, the changes in wardrobe, and the changes in the world around us. This time of year usually has quite a marked and distinguished difference from every other season; it stands out from the rest of the year like gangbusters. The scent of pine greenery and flicker of lights everywhere you go, the catchy seasonal tunes that never seem to leave your head, the smell of pumpkin and allspice baking in the oven--I never realized before how all-encompassing it really is. That is, I never realized it until all of that became absent.

Sure, Koreans celebrate Christmas, but not nearly to the degree that Americans do. In some ways, it's a little bit refreshing that the weekend after Halloween doesn't cue all of the retail world to pitch into holiday-themed ad campaigns. In a way, it's a little bit nice that everyone isn't scurrying around like mad to accomplish all their holiday shopping. But, I must admit, my American-ness runs deep, and I kinda miss it, even some of the madness.

When you think about it, it's sort of amazing how an entire country as large as the United States embraces a little bit of magic all at once. Call it a consumer-driven holiday if you like, but I think that even if you're not religious, it's something much more than that. I think it's the something more that's what sustains it. I always feel such warmth and hope, renewed with each lit up tree I see, each plate of cookies I bake, and each carol I hear on the radio. It's a time when I feel constantly reminded of the beauty life can bring, and the love that is present in each breath, each blade of grass, and each raindrop (or snowflake).

Maybe it was my charmed childhood, in which my parents really made Christmas a time of magic, wonder, and love for all of us. I couldn't wait to bake pie with my mom and my sister, to wrap presents in secret from dad to mom and from mom to dad, to sing carols with the church choir and to smell the breakfast casserole baking in the oven on Christmas morning. As our little family grew up, I clung tightly to our family traditions. I helped dad put up the outdoor lights every year, making him promise to wait for my holiday break from college so that we could do it together. I demanded that everyone help decorate the tree on Christmas Eve, just as we had when we were kids. Everyone heaved deep sighs and asked "do we have to?"--it's a lot of work when you have an ornament from every year of your life, and then some! I even continued to write my Christmas Eve note to Santa Claus, leaving cookies and milk as well as a carrot for Rudolf, well into my college years. It's a little silly, I know, but I always loved seeing what "Santa" wrote in reply in the morning. Behind every one of these traditions was a little excitement for the joy that life can bring, and a lot of thanksgiving for that gift.

This holiday season, I am feeling grateful, indeed. Things are different here, to be sure, but I'm trying to find my own small glimpses of Christmas spirit where I can. Yesterday I went to Starbucks, (I know! In Korea!) which seems sort of ridiculous, but I knew they would be all decked out in holiday cheer. I ordered a peppermint Mocha with whipped cream and sat by the window, alone. I looked out to the busy street and listened to the Christmas music and just got quiet. I thought about the miles between me and my family this Christmas and felt truly grateful to have so much support and love across all those miles. It's not just the care packages of late, containing ingredients for holiday treats, a cookie press and all the recipes I have been missing. It's knowing that I can go wherever I will with my traveler's heart, I can do whatever I will with my scattered ambitions, and I will always have a family back home, missing me, but hoping that I'm having the time of my life. They will always encourage me to follow my crazy dreams. Reflecting on a gift like that, I feel all the warmth of the season right here with me, no matter the distance.

aaaand I'm back!

I know I have been absent from this blog for nearly a month. Apologies. In the time since my last post:

• I have Moved to a new apartment. See this link for my mailing address. Remember, anything bigger than a letter should go to my school, at this address. My old place was great, but the new one is even better! It is about the same size, but now with a better, more functional lay out. Moving was my original excuse for getting behind on the blog, but at this point I don't think I can play that card anymore. Ah, it's just life.
• I have visited Babbie in Sokcho once again, in time to see the fall colors and hike ulsanbawi. Awesome. Simply awesome. Click the photo for more views from the hike, and the whole weekend. In addition to the hike, we ate some delicious food, walked all over Sokcho, drank some korean rice wine called Machholi, met up with Greg, had multiple good conversations over delicious cups of coffee, and just enjoyed each other's company. It was probably my best weekend away from Pohang yet. Relaxed but full of enjoyable company and beautiful scenery. The weather was perfect.
• I have started taking Korean lessons! At school, every foreign teacher has a Korean counterpart. My partner, Kang Mi, has become a dear, loyal friend. She has adopted me somewhat and is endlessly supportive. She is always up for a little excitement, and we share some personality traits which make our out-of-school adventures a good time, every time. At any rate, I told her awhile ago that I would really like to learn some Korean, so that I can function a little easier and attempt some conversation with people I meet who aren't proficient in English. She talked to her sister, and now we have a trade going. Her sister, Sunny, is a mother and a housewife. She and one of Sunny's mom friends come to my house once or twice a week and give me one hour lessons. On Sunday, I babysit their children. It is delightful, and I am finally learning! I know the alphabet now, mostly. Little by little, I am learning vocabulary and conversation. cheon-cheon-hi! (slowly!)
• I have started playing music with people! There is a local cover-band in Pohang that plays twice a month, at a bar about 5 minutes from my apartment. They are awesome and fun and their bass player, Rob, has become a loyal friend. He and I jam out once a week or so, and as it happens, the band is having me play with them on stage in a few weeks. Needless to say, I'm stoked. There is a possibility that I may become a "member" of this band when their guitar player and lead vocalist leaves in February, but whatever happens, I am content to be a guest musician for now. As an aside, the owner of this bar (called Live Story) is simply delightful and has come to treat me with the hospitality of an old friend every time I show up there. I'm feeling a community forming, and it's a great feeling.
• I ate a delicious thanksgiving dinner, complete with pumpkin pie. Rob, who I mentioned, and Erin, (his girlfriend, also becoming a good friend to me) invited me over to have our own little ex-pat feast on the weekend of the holiday. I brought my friend Jack along. The dinner Erin prepared was delicious. For dessert, they let me use their oven to bake up a little taste of home. We counted our blessings over the meal, then played charades and trivia, talked for hours, and enjoyed the company and more good food. I was really missing my family that weekend, as holidays tend to trigger those emotions. They helped a lot. They are warm and opened, and I certainly counted them among my blessings this Thanksgiving.
• I placed third in a local poetry slam. Yeah, this one is total left field. The slam started with an idea being thrown around in conversation, and then this awesomely nice guy named Sam got it together. It just happened this past Friday. It was great to see that kind of creativity come alive on stage, and some people were really incredible. Apparently this may become a monthly fixture at Live story. I would be delighted to see that happen, and I think it would motivate me to write more. Sam was even talking about getting a slam team together, as there are competitions in Seoul and Busan and other big cities. Who knows? Maybe just pipe dreams, but it could be pretty rad.
• I was offered a little work at my favorite bar, Mindys'. This is yet to be seen, but I may begin helping out on busy nights from time to time. The girls from Mindy's were my first real friends in Pohang--you may remember Ruby and Cha-cha (Chan-Hee) from an earlier post about a hike in the north of Pohang. Well, I have since gotten to know Mindy a little as well. It might be obvious to point out, but she is the owner. She invited me out for a dinner with the girls and a few of their friends, and while there, asked me if I wanted to come work for her from time to time. Of course, I accepted. We shall see if this happens, but I think it will be a lot of fun if it does. Health code laws are pretty different in Korea, so when you go to a bar, the feeling is much more that you're hanging at someone's house, and the people working there are simply hosting you. What I mean is, the bar tenders often have a drink in hand themselves, or are eating a plate of food when it gets slow. They play cards and darts and pool with the patrons, enjoying themselves while still making sure to get everyone's drink orders and keeping things tidy. I already hang out at Mindy's once a week or so. To get paid for it, and be provided free drinks and food? Um, of course I'll accept that offer!

So this is getting lengthy, but the last thing I feel I must mention is the latest developments in the North/South Korea debacle. There have been some concerns voiced from people I love, which is reasonable. From what I have heard, American media is blowing it up quite a bit. Allow me to diffuse some of the worry. The word on it from most Koreans I talk to is the recent developments are more of the same. This attack was sad, and significant, but the thing is, these things have been happening off and on for the past 60 years since the violence of the Korean War ended in armistice. Koreans mostly say it's a lot of posturing and asserting of power that will likely amount to nothing. People also say that the submarine incident of last March was much more significant, as 46 sailors died. In this recent case, Lee Myoung Bak (our prez), responded calmly and coolly, but with appropriate sternness. He asserted that he wants to keep peace and does not want to do anything that would create further violence. He is even saying now that reunification will happen.

People also think that North Korea really doesn't want a war. The common opinion is that they would be completely decimated in a matter of weeks, as all of the world powers are supporting South Korea for the most part on this, and the current state of their economy is pretty bleak. True, China is supporting both Koreas, but their statement in this case is that they hope both Koreas will find a way to work towards peace. Another Korean I talked to thinks that this particular incident is an attempt at a show of military prowess on the part of Kim Jong Un, the successor to Kim Jong Il. People of that opinion think that he is trying to prove to North Koreans that he is as powerful, fearless, and bold as his father.

Who knows, but the bottom line is, I'm safe! Where I live is far from the recent action, and it is incredibly unlikely that anywhere else in Korea will be attacked. The place that was hit has a long history of conflict, even after the Korean war. It's a small fishing island on the north east side of the country that I've never been to nor do I have any reason to go there. Rest assured!

Babbie wrote a recent post which is really informed, and has more information than what I wrote here. She lives 30 minutes from the border, which is significant.

Thanks to everyone who has been following me here, I think I'm back on the wagon. I'm really enjoying my life in Korea, but I love hearing from you in any way, letters, emails, and just little facebook messages are quite nice. I must admit, the holiday season makes for some pangs of homesickness.

All the best!

Jukdo Market

Pohang is home to The Jukdo market, a huge traditional opened-air fish market. However, there is much, much more than fish in this market. Many of the things you find are common to Korea, but are also the likes of nothing I've ever seen in a fish market in the U.S. Even at Pike Place, Seattle! Below, I have quoted from the official city website:

"The Jukdo Market in Pohang was created after road merchants started to sell products at the swamp of the inner harbor in Pohang 50 years ago. In October 1969, the Merchant Group of the Jukdo Market was officially established, and the current number of stores is about 1,200. The market is the largest traditional market on the east coast of Gyeongsangbuk-do [my province].

The Jukdo Fish Market exists 500m east of the center of Pohang. About 200 raw fish restaurants are concentrated inside of the marine product stores, and fresh raw fish from the east coast can be purchased at low prices in any season. If you pay for sauces, you can eat raw fish right there at a store. In winter, you can enjoy fermented fish, which is a fish famous in Pohang."

I have walked through the market countless times since my arrival in Pohang, often just to get some fresh local produce or hot fried Korean pancakes (pajeon) from a food cart. It's pretty centrally located, near my bank and the main downtown shopping area where I often wander on weekends, so it's often on my way. I always forget to bring my camera though, and there is so much to see! Yesterday, I grabbed my camera and set out with a purpose! I mostly focused on the fish section, but it goes on for blocks and blocks--live seafood, vegetables, fruits, plants, clothing, bedding, shoes, toys, woodcarvings, housewares, jewelry--everything! And as far as the food goes, it is so cheap! On this visit, I bought a huge bag of mushrooms for about $3, the equivalent of which might be $20 or more at the grocery store.

At markets in Korea, you can't really buy just a few of anything, at least when it comes to produce. There's a weekly market near my apartment that I frequent. The first time I went there, shortly after arriving in Korea, I tried to buy just one apple, and the vendor wasn't having it . She kept gesturing that I choose more, and even after I had taken three, she placed another three in my bag. She looked like she would keep piling them in until I finally smiled and flailed and said "that's good! That's good!" She seemed to laugh at me, and said something in Korean. For all of those apples, I think it was also only about $3. I think I ended up taking them to work to share.

Another nice thing about it is that often, vendors give buyers "service" or free items with their purchases. This actually happens a lot in Korea, everywhere you go. Restaurants, small retail establishments, food carts, even in convenience stores! I'm told it's how they thank you for patronizing their establishment. Talk about customer appreciation!

Enjoy the pictures on my photostream!

Moving!

Alright! I now know that my offical moving date to my new apartment is November 23rd. For those of you who are in snail mail correspondance with me, you can start sending letters to this address after the 15th.

Kirsten Smith
#301, 645-6,
I-dong, Nam-gu
Pohang-si, Gyeongbuk
Korea
790-320

Mail takes about 7-14 days to get to me, so that is a conservative estimate. Also, if you send anything in the hazy window of mid-November, maybe send me a message to let me know so I can be on the lookout at both addresses.

Thanks so much to everyone who has sent me letters. I love postal correspondance!

Sick

The cold has come to Pohang, and each day I wrap my scarf around me, pull on my gloves and jacket, and brave a ten minute frigid walk to work. The walk home is colder still, as by that time, the sun is not up to offer its forgiving rays. The bitter chill got the better of me this weekend, and I am battling a horrendous head-cold that makes me want to stay in bed all day, sleep, and drink tea. Alas, there are students to be taught. Hopefully, the weekend will offer me the rest I need and I'll be back to 100% soon enough. Well, perhaps I can credit the cold air for my sickness, but I may have to note a busy Halloween weekend which may have had its part as well.

This weekend, I ventured to the city of Busan, two and a half hours south of Pohang. It was my first trip to the south, and one of my best yet in Korea. Why Busan? I was connected to this city by a friend of a friend back in Portland, interestingly enough. Upon arriving at a Halloween house party there, I met my original fellow expatriate west-coaster, and was then introduced to person after person, each one inviting, friendly, and at ease in conversation. Eventually, the entire party rallied, and it was off to downtown to check out the bar scene.

The Halloween festivities were a little crazy in downtown Busan, in a major foreigner hub whose name I can't recall. People were everywhere in outlandish costumes, parading in the streets, and of course, most of them were foreigners. Koreans do not celebrate Halloween, officially. That there is any acknowledgement of it all, let alone hundreds of bar parties across the country speaks directly to the foreigner presence in Korea. I bar hopped with this group, danced my face off, and caught moments of conversation with costumed patrons whenever I felt the need to just sit and gather energy. The evening wrapped up with some Norebong, at which point my voice was so hoarse, I decided to call it a night after just two songs. I snagged a cab and made it "home," collapsing onto the couch-bed close to 6am.

I woke in the (late) morning to my gracious hosts (Tabby and Chad) offering me coffee and a place on the porch beside them. We sat and gazed from the 18th floor sun-room balcony onto the Gangwan Bridge and the water below it. The sun shone brightly, making the water sparkle. The breeze wafted through the opened windows and I looked beyond the water to the horizon--a sprawling city skyline backed with mountains covered in treetops. Beautiful.

Eventually we made our way outside and down to Busan's Global Gathering festival that happened to be occurring that weekend. I had no prior knowledge of it, but it I was up for anything. The festival was held at the waterfront, and Tabby and Chad's singing group would be performing a set in a line up of performers. I was amazed that they were able to find a group of people with this shared interest in Korea, but I had to remind myself that Busan is quite larger than Pohang. 3 million people larger, in fact, with quite a thriving artists' community. Busan is actually the sight of PIFF (the Pusan International Film Festival), one of the top film festivals in the world.

We ate food of multiple cultures and lounged in the sun, waiting for their moment. It couldn't have been a better day for an outdoor event, and I felt rejuvenated, despite my worsening sore throat. I watched the water, I talked a little and listened a lot, I lay on my back in the sun, I felt the breeze and took deep breaths.

I watched my new friends perform, and delighted in the sounds of voices singing harmony. I miss singing. Especially choral music. When they had finished, we headed back to the apartment to deal with the havoc of the previous night (they had hosted the house party where our Halloween began). It really didn't take too long, and once it was done, we all felt relief. We returned to the porch where we passed a few hours swapping stories, swapping songs, and just sharing ourselves with each other. Though it was Sunday, I decided to stay the night, at their invitation, and leave in the morning. I just didn't feel like leaving quite yet.

In the morning, I hugged Tabby as she headed out the door for an early Monday, then made a breakfast of scrabbled eggs and hash browns for Chad and I. Chad then walked me to the train station, making sure I found my way alright. Though they had both said so a few times before, Chad reminded me that I was always welcome for a visit. I thanked him, hugged him, and hopped on my train. I beamed as I looked out the window at the station disappearing into the distance, the tracks click-clacking beneath me. It is always a good feeling to connect to people in such a meaningful way. My ride home offered me more beautiful blue skies, and hills covered with trees just beginning to turn. The fields of rice are now turning to a brilliant gold, and when the sun is out like it was then, it seems to make them shine.

A day later, my head became congested, my throat pained, and my nose an endless drain for the grossness in my head. It is now Thursday, and I'm beginning to see the light at the end of this head-cold tunnel. I haven't been sick in a long time, so I really don't think it's so bad. Tomorrow is Friday, so I'll just have to make it through, and then I can come home and collapse, and sleep for 16 hours if I so choose. In the end I think, sickness is not always preventable, especially when you work with children. Who's to say I didn't get it from one of them? Certainly, enough of them have been having their share of coughing and sneezing since the weather has turned. Whether it's the kids or the awesome weekend, I will survive, and it's worth it.